|Below is a very simple add-on to an existing single
battery boat. A backup battery can easily be connected through the isolator to
the starter. No other wiring changes are necessary except you should use a
combination deep cycle/starting battery for the main circuit. Simply connect a 2 or
4 AWG wire from the BIC to the starter circuit.
Then, connect a 4 AWG wire to the backup battery and add a short 6 AWG jumper wire
from terminals "A", and "C". Install the Sense Resistor
and external diode (supplied with the BIC) and add a fused ground wire. The
unit will now keep the backup battery charged while operating. For the backup
remote functions, you can install your own remote switch and LED if desired or you can
purchase our new Remote Module which has the
switch and LED prewired in a mounting enclosure. See Figure 1
below: Switch your backup battery in parallel only when
needed. For illustration simplicity, the Remote LED indicator
connections are not shown.
Now, lets examine pros and cons
for this setup.
- Optimized configuration for emergency backup battery reliability.
- Extreme simplicity! Heavy Duty Switches are NOT needed! Zero!
None! Zip! Minimal wiring needs.
Alternator protection device NOT needed!
- External solenoids NOT required. Can be used with 200 Amp alternator!
- Low Cost! With heavy duty switches costing as much as
$30.00 to $90.00 each, consider your savings by eliminating up to 3 of these.
Save about $25.00 for an alternator protection device. Save money by reducing
the amount of wiring required. Save labor dollars by simplifying
- Easy, simple to understand, installation! Eliminate all the hole drilling
for those switches.
- If you draw down your primary battery, you will have a fully
charged backup battery. No normal loads are
on the backup battery. Therefore, it is always fully charged and not cycled,
resulting in very long life. When your primary battery wears
out, move this battery to become your primary battery (if it is a deep cycle
unit). Then replace the backup with a new battery. This way, you
always keep the best battery for when you need it most!
- Simple automatic operation! Virtually free of human intervention!
No hassle, worry free.
- Simple manual parallel combination via a remote micro-switch.
From a remote console, you can use very small wire running a long distance to
switch the batteries in parallel.
- In this configuration, the BIC-75300 handles the full cranking current
(normal 120 to 180 Amps) for a 350ci V8 gas engine (up to 300 Amps) for 15 to 30
seconds. (For diesel applications, we recommend you add a
second BIC-75300 in parallel to share the load current.)
- The Hellroaring BIC-75300 and BIC-75150 limit inrush currents when switching.
No arcing to wear out the device!
- No diode voltage drop effect when ON! Super low ON
resistance (less than 0.002 ohms!)
Cons: (these are not all cons)
- If you connect your main starting battery to the accessory (house)
buss, your starting battery will, by default (*except
as noted below), be utilized in a deep cycle
application. This has historically been and still is not good practice.
A starting battery will readily be damaged by deep discharge applications. In
the past, deep cycle batteries were not designed to handle large cranking currents and
would be damaged by starting applications. But, today, there are more
choices. Many deep cycle batteries can handle cranking
currents. An example is the Optima "D" Blue Top or Yellow Top.
They are rated for at least 750 CCA. This is only 50 CCA less than their
starting battery. A typical 350 cubic inch engine, for example, only requires
a battery rated at 540 CCA or better. (*
Note: When this circuit is utilized in an automotive
application where there are no normal "engine off" loads, this is not a problem
and a starting battery is acceptable.)
- Mechanical Relay Con: If you drain your
main battery and then parallel your fully charged backup battery, you will initially draw
substantial current from it. One reason people have avoided this system
is because, when switching, high inrush currents can damage mechanical
contacts. Also, many people believe that this will suck valuable energy needed
for cranking. The truth is, unless the main battery is damaged with internal shorts, this is better
than using the fully charged battery alone. This is especially true when you
allow a few minutes before cranking. It is true that when you
connect them in parallel, current will flow from the fully charged battery to the
discharged battery. As it does, charge builds up in the discharged battery.
The longer you allow this condition to exist, the more charge transfer takes
place until equalization (which you don't require in order to crank). A fully
discharged battery at rest has a voltage of about 11.5 volts (no load and
no charge). When you crank your engine, your (fully charged) battery terminal
voltage will normally drop to less than this 11.5 volts. Therefore, current
will no longer flow into the weak battery but will only flow to the starting
load. Furthermore, whatever charge has transferred to the weak battery will
cause it to supply additional power to the starting load! So this is a Con
only with mechanical relays. PRO: The Hellroaring
solid state isolator/combiners limit inrush currents when
switching. There is no arcing to wear out the device!
- Mechanical Relay Con: If you drain your main
battery and you want to continue operating accessories with the remaining power from your
backup battery and you energize a mechanical combiner, it will consume energy that you
want to conserve. Therefore, some people would install an additional heavy duty
switch. PRO: With a Hellroaring Battery
Isolator/Combiner, the energy consumed is insignificant (less
than 0.012 amps when ON) allowing this setup to be practical!
- The dc load buss voltage will drop while starting.
Electronic devices sensitive to this may experience trouble.